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| Setting off from near Cluanie Inn - views west to the South Glen Shiel Ridge |
We left Cyril in the layby at Malagan Bridge (at what would be the end of the walk) and headed back up the A87 in the car to the access track for Cluanie Lodge (just east of the Cluanie Inn) where there is a little parking area for the hoards doing the South Glen Shiel Ridge today - today being a sunny Saturday close to mid-summer.
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| Jim - Crossing the River Cluanie on the access track to Cluanie Lodge |
We had camped at
Cannich Campsite as usual - meeting up after work at the caravan with both our vehicles, ready for the long linear walk that is the South Glen Shiel Ridge - 7 Munro's, 28km and 1850m of ascent - we'd done a good few hills this spring so we were feeling fit and confident
We'd discussed options for getting back to the start from the end many times - looked at buses, taxi's, biking back up the road (no chance!), doing the South Glen Shiel Ridge one day, wild camping and walking back up the Five Sisters of Kintail the next - but being rather lazy around the organising/pre-planning, it had seemed like an easy option just to take both vehicles - the fact that I had to work quite late on the Friday and Jim had gone over to the campsite and get set up, earlier in the day, let us feel a bit less guilty.
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| Views east across Loch Cluanie from near the start of the walk |
There were a few other cars in the car parking area, walkers booting up and looking around at the serried hills, clear against a cerulean sky. Fingers crossed for a great day.
We set off along the track, south, crossing the River Cluanie and curving around the loch - the views were stunning - many photographs were taken!
The track ascended gently, easy walking, past the turn off to Cluanie Lodge and away from the loch, up into the hills.
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| Crossing the bealach between Druim nan Cnamh (Ben Loinne) and Creag a'Mhaim - not quite time to head up the ridge yet! |
It was clouding over, grey covering the blue, warm sunshine deteriorating into a chilly gloom - was it going to rain?
It was about 6km along the track to the bealach at 410m, between Druim nan Cnamh (Ben Loinne) on our left and Creag a'Mhaim, (the first of the Munro's on the South Glen Shiel Ridge) to our right - it was just a bit further along the track to the little cairn and the rough path ascending Creag a'Mhaim. We had kept a sharp eye out, but it was pretty obvious!
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| The start of the ascent of Creag a'Mhaim |
Up.
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| Jim - ascent of Creag a'Mhaim |
A group of five young lads had been gradually catching up with us from the car park. They overtook us as we made our way up the hillside - we spent the rest of the day leap frogging with them, meeting up at summits and fuel breaks. They were a great group of lads, full of smiles and laughter - once again we were placed in the Venerable group...
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| Looking back (SE) over Loch Loyne from ascent of Creag a'Mhaim |
The clouds continued to gather, some of the higher summits were shrouded, a chilly wind got up - jackets on, gloves on. A few drops of rain fell. Oh, no!
Thankfully it came to nothing. By the time we got to the summit the drops had stopped. It was still cool and gloomy, but we had views - and although it looked ominous at times, no more rain fell all day.
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| Views north east over Loch Cluanie from ascent of Creag a'Mhaim |
From Creag a'Mhaim (Munro 218, 947m) we could see much of the rest of the ridge, snaking away to the west - it didn't look a rocky, scrambly route like the
Five Sisters of Kintail, just across the glen - but an airy, grassy, high level trod, disappearing into the haze.
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Creag a'Mhaim summit (Munro 218, 947m) - first Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views west along the Ridge |
Onward...
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| Lochan Coire nan Leac and Druim Shionnach from Creag a'Mhaim |
I hope you enjoy the views.
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| Jim - South Glen Shiel Ridge from between Creag a'Mhaim and Druim Shionnach |
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| Looking back (E) towards Creag a'Maim from ascent of Druim Shionnach |
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| Jim - ascent of Druim Shionnach |
It wasn't quite as grassy as it had looked from that first summit - there were scrambly bits and rocky bits and even a few narrow bits. Varied and interesting.
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| Jim - ascent of Druim Shionnach |
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| Looking back (E) towards Creag a'Maim from ascent of Druim Shionnach |
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Druim Shionnach summit (Munro 160, 987m) - second Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views over A'Choich into Glen Shiel |
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| Jim - descent from Druim Shionnach |
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| Views west from near Druim Shionnach summit over Druim Shionnach West Top to Aonach air Chrith |
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| Views over A'Choich into Glen Shiel from near Druim Shionnach summit |
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| Jim - ascent of Druim Shionnach West Top |
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| Looking back (E) to Druim Shionnach, and Creag a'Mhaim from ascent of Druim Shionnach West Top |
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| Druim Shionnach West Top summit (Munro Top 175, 938m) - views to Aonach air Chrith |
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| Views over Coire an t-Slugain to the Cluanie Inn from the South Glen Shiel Ridge near Druim Shionnach West Top |
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| Jim - Ascent of Aonach air Chrith |
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| Druim na Ciche ridge and A'Chioch from ascent of Aonach air Chrith |
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| Jim - nearing the summit of Aonach air Chrith |
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Aonach air Chrith summit (Munro 109, 1021m) - third Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views back (E) to Druim Shionnach, and Creag a'Mhaim |
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| Jim - descent from Aonach air Chrith |
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| Jim - descent from Aonach air Chrith |
In one of our guide books it had advised that, on the descent from Aonach air Chrith (the third Munro on the ridge), there is a "bad step" with rocks smoothed and polished by walkers sliding down on their backsides. We watched out for this. How bad was it?
Looking back, it must have been the rocks in the photograph below. At the time we didn't notice any "bad step" or see any polished rocks - just an easy down scramble.
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| Me (Polly - there's not many of me on the blog!) - descent from Aonach air Chrith |
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Jim - descent from Aonach air Chrith
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| Maol Chinn-dearg from descent from Aonach air Chrith |
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| Looking back (E) at another group of walkers descending from Aonach air Chrith |
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| Jim - South Geln Shiel Ridge between Aonach air Chrith and Maol Chinn-dearg - views west |
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| Looking back (E) to Aonach air Chrith |
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| Maol Chinn-dearg from Maol Chinn-dearg East Top (913m) |
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Maol Chinn-dearg (Munro 169, 981m) - fourth Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views back (E) to Aonach air Chrith |
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Jim - descent from Maol Chinn-dearg
Views west to Sgurr Coire na Feinne and Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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| Looking back (E) to Maol Chinn-dearg from Bealach Caol na Droma Bige |
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| Jim - below Sgurr Coire na Feinne |
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| Views west from Bealach Caol na Droma Moire to Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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| Looking back (E) to Sgurr Coire na Feinne and Maol Chinn-dearg |
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| Jim - ascent of Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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| Looking back (E) along South Glen Shiel Ridge from ascent of Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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| Views west over the South Glen Shiel Ridge to The Forcan Ridge and The Saddle from ascent of Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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Jim - nearing the summit of Sgurr an Doire Leathain
Views to Sgurr an Lochain (sixth Munro on South Glen Shiel Ridge) and the Five Sisters of Kintail |
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| Snow patch near the summit of Sgurr an Doire Leathain |
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Jim - Sgurr an Doire Leathain summit -
views north over Glen Shiel |
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| Looking back (E) to our route so far along the South Glen Shiel Ridge from Sgurr an Doire Leathain summit |
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Sgurr an Doire Leathain summit (Munro 121, 1010m) - fifth Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views to Sgurr an Lochain (sixth Munro on South Glen Shiel Ridge) |
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| Jim - descent from Sgurr an Doire Leathain with views west to Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Looking back (E) over Bealach Sgurr an Lochain to Sgurr an Doire Leathain from ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Jim - ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Coire an Lochain with Glen Shiel and Sgurr nan Spainteach beyond from ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Jim - little scrambly bit on ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Looking back (E) to Sgurr an Doire Leathain from ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
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| Views north from ascent of Sgurr an Lochain |
By mid afternoon, the skies were clearing, the sun came out and the views opened up further - stunning.
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Views west to Creag nan Damh (7th Munro on South Glen Shiel Ridge) and Sgurr Beag
from Sgurr an Lochain summit (Munro 130, 1004m) |
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Sgurr an Lochain summit (Munro 130, 1004m) - 6th Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views back (E) to Sgurr an Doire Leathain with Sgurr a'Mhaoraich beyond |
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Jim - descending from summit of Sgurr an Lochain
Views west to Creag nan Damh (7th Munro on South Glen Shiel Ridge) and Sgurr Beag |
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| Looking back (E) to Sgurr an Lochain from Bealach Choire Reidhe |
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| Jim - on the Sgurr Beag bypass path |
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| Creag nan Damh from Bealach Fraoch Cloire |
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| Creag nan Damh ridge - tiny walkers can be seen ascending |
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| Looking back (E) to Sgurr Beag, Sgurr an Lochain and Wester Glen Quoich from ascent of Creag nan Damh |
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| Jim - nearing the summit of Creag nan Damh |
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| Views towards Knoydart from near the summit of Creag nan Damh |
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Creag nan Damh summit (Munro 274, 918m) - seventh Munro on the South Glen Shiel Ridge
Views NW to The Saddle and the Forcan Ridge |
Creag nan Damh (Munro 274, 918m), the final Munro on the ridge, was reached at teatime - 5pm - time for another snack. We gave a last wave to the group of lads, who were disappearing off, over the undulations between us and Bealach Duibh Leac - never to be seen again.
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| Views NW to Loch Duich from Creag nan Damh summit |
The sun was shining, the views were glorious, we were feeling pleasantly tired. We put our feet up in the late afternoon warmth and took it all in... We didn't really want it to end.
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| Jim - descent from Creag nan Damh |
But time was getting on and we still had quite a way to go. Aww well.
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| Looking back (E) to Creag nan Damh |
Those undulations, on our journey to the bealach, were surprisingly strenuous, there was one or two more rocky lumps and grassy bumps that we could have done without at this stage in the day.
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| Jim - descent from Creag nan Damh |
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| Jim - descent from Creag nan Damh into Bealach Duibh Leac |
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Looking back (E) to undulating ridge from Creag nan Damh into Bealach Duibh Leac
Views also into Wester Glen Quoich |
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| Jim - descent into Bealach Duibh Leac - views to Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais and Sgurr na Sgine beyond |
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| Jim - Bealach Duibh Leac - views north west into Coire Allt Bealach nan Dubh-leac |
The path on the ground came a little before the lowest point in Bealach Duibh Leac and before the stalkers path marked on the map - we followed this down, quickly taking us into Coire Allt Bealach nan Dubh-leac.
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| Jim - descent into Coire Allt Bealach nan Dubh-leac |
The path was rather rough and very wet in places - somewhat slippery, a bit dicey on those tired legs!
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| Crossing Allt Coire Toiteil as we descended towards Glen Shiel |
We stopped and sat on a rock for a few minutes in the sunshine, before we passed into the shadow of the hill - enjoying the mountains.
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| Jim - descent towards Glen Shiel above Allt Mhalagain - views to Five Sisters of Kintail ridge |
We could see another walker, making good speed down the path from the bealach - he was catching us fast, leaping along. Impressive after such a long day - we soon found out why! He was looking for a lift up the road 😆.
He (James) explained that he had left the rest of his group (his partner and parents) following on behind, so that he could get a lift up to his car up at the Cluanie Inn, and be back down at the end of the walk to pick them up when they got to the road. The family were doing a sponsored walk to raise money for
Motor Neurone Disease research, following the death of a family member last year - and they'd raised over £1000 so far. We were happy to give him a lift up the road - and having another walker with us, chatting and laughing, kept us going at the end of such a long walk - it really didn't feel long before we reached Malagan and the road.
Not quite sure how we managed to miss the footbridge over Allt Mhalagain - but at that point in the day we didn't care and we just paddled across - boots and all - the river was low and it was only ankle deep - obviously not concentrating.
We all jumped into Cyril (it's a bit tight in the front with three!) - and were soon back up at the Cluanie car park. We waved goodbye to James (taking his details, so that we could sponsor him), I flung my rucksack into the back of the car and we pointed our vehicles back towards the campsite.
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| Looking back (S) towards Bealach Duibh Leac and descent route |
What an amazing day! Long but satisfying. Big smiles, only slightly sore feet - but another seven Munro's to add to our total - and now it's time for dinner.
After a cuppa and a proper meal, we set up the laptop, ready to look at our many photographs. The camera wasn't in it's cover. Where could it be...? Not in the car, or Cyril, not on the ground anywhere between the vehicles and the caravan. We'd had it when we got into Cyril at the end of the walk. I must have dropped it at the Cluanie car park!
There's nothing like a 2 hour drive (there and back) to look for a camera in the undergrowth, in the dark is not what you need at the end of a long day - but the camera, with it's precious cargo, was there, in the grass by the car park. Phew...
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| Looking back to Creag nan Damh, Bealach Duibh Leac and Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais from the end of the walk |
Route: Car parking area just off the A87, just E of the Cluanie Inn (NH079117), head S along track which passes the parking area, soon crossing the River Cluanie and continuing SE around the end of Loch Cluanie and ascending to bealach at NH099080, about 1km past the bealach (NH101071) beside a cairn, take the stalkers path ascending Creag a'Mhaim's SE ridge, Creag a'Mhaim (Munro 218, 947m), continue NW along rough but obvious path, Druim Shionnach (Munro 160, 987m), W to Druim Shionnach West Top (Munro Top 175, 938m) W to Aonach air Chrith (Munro 109, 1021m), descend steeply and continue along rough path along ridge to Maol Chinn-dearg (Munro 169, 981m), NW to Sgurr an Doire Leathain (Munro 121, 1010m) (the summit is slightly off the main ridge, but rough path makes this obvious), NW to Sgurr an Lochain (Munro 130, 1004m), W along path baypassing Sgurr Beag on its S side and continuing to ascend Creag nan Damh (Munro 274, 918m), continue W descending along rough path along undulating ridge to Bealach Duibh Leac (NG968112)) and take indistinct, rough, steep and wet stalkers path into Coire Bealach Duibh Leac, this improves with descent, continue to A87 crossing fb at NG970134 (or, as we did, fording river as required - the path divides towards the end!), and to gate on A87 at NG971139.
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