Saturday 1 October 2016

Meall a'Bhuiridh and Creise

Looks like it's going to be a great day. The sun was shining and the tops were clear as a bell in Kinlochleven. We set off from the campsite looking forward to our first hill day of the holiday...

The rough path ascending from Glencoe Ski Centre 

It was a touch misty as we drove through Glen Coe - and this got worse as we topped out onto Rannoch Moor and the turn off to the Glencoe Ski Centre.

Jim and Rafe - ascent under the Glencoe Ski Centre lift

Meall a'Bhuiridh and Creise were invisible in a thick white haze - would it get better?

Yep - even as we watched, blue sky started to peep through - and by the time we were parked up and had our boots on, it was obvious that the mist was rising and thinning.

Views north from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh (NN263519 approx)

We set off on the well signposted path, past the ski centre buildings - it was immediately steep and very rough - up the hillside under one of the ski lifts.

Views north east across Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh 

There were a few walkers and cyclists about - not surprising on such a promising Saturday - some of them deciding to save themselves a few hundred metres of ascent by taking the access chairlift to Coire Pollach - definitely not an option for us with a wriggly Rafie.

Looking back (N) from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

We slogged on, up the rubbly, muddy path - in places it was something of a stream and it looked like, in wetter weather, it could be more of a tumbling waterfall than a path!

Nearing Coire Pollach - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

We got some cheery waves from the chairlift users above us - cheats!!!!!

Crossing Coire Pollach - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

As we gained height the mist thinned and soon we were above the roiling clouds, looking down on an almost cloud inversion. The sky was blue and the hills around, sharp and clear against it. Rannoch Moor was intermittent under the shifting sea of vapour.

Crossing Coire Pollach - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh - views to Creise

Before long, the ascent relented and we found ourselves in Coire Pollack - a different world of green hills. Once away from the ski centre paraphernalia all sign of civilisation disappeared and we were alone...

Ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh - views north west to Buachaille Etive Mor

We picked a pathless route across the coire floor, aiming for the low col between Meall a'Bhuiridh and Creag Dhubh and curving south to start our ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh's north ridge.

Looking back (N) over Creag Dhubh to Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

The way was initially gentle (apart from going though a few tussocks and across boggy bits) - a vague and intermittent trod was visible at times, confirmation that we were on the usual baggers route.

Ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh by North Ridge - Creise to right of picture

Ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh - looking back (NE) over Coire Pollach 

The ascent quickly stiffened - height was soon gained and views opened up - especially as the cloud was now thinning.

Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

The way was - up!

Creise, Buachaille Etive Mor and Glen Coe from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Looking back (N) over Creag Dhubh to Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Jim and Rafe - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

The higher, the rockier.

Looking back (N) over Creag Dhubh and Coire Pollach to Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Creise from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Rafe and Jim - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

There was the occasional bit of skiing signage - cheery!

Meall a'Bhuiridh ski slopes

Ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Creise appearing as we ascend Meall a'Bhuiridh

Coire an Easain from final ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

We were very soon on the bouldery summit - Meall a'Bhuiridh (Munro 45,1108m). The wispy cloud was blowing in and out, the views changing every monent. Many photographs were taken.

Nearing the summit - Meall a'Bhuiridh

We moved away from the summit (although we had it to ourselves!) and found a comfy boulder for a first lunch...

Rafe and Jim - Meall a'Bhuiridh summit (Munro 45, 1108m)

Coire an Easain and Clach Leathad from Meall a'Bhuiridh summit

...before heading off, descending via Meall a'Bhuiridh's west ridge, and airy parapet with deep cories on either side with Mam Coire Easain ahead.

Rafe and Jim - initial descent from Meall a'Bhuiridh towards Bealach Coire an Easain

Coire an Easain from descent from Meall a'Bhuiridh

Bealach Coire and Easain and Meall a'Bhuiridh west ridge - views to Mam Coire Easain and Creise massif

It was an easy walk - never too steep and with a reasonable path all the way. And the views...

Creise from Meall a'Bhuiridh west ridge

Coire an Easain and Clach Leathad from Meall a'Bhuiridh west ridge

We could hear red deer roaring, the sound echoing through the glens - we spotted the culprit, far down in Coire an Easain, proclaiming his dominance.

Rafe and Jim - Bealach Coire an Easain - views to Mam Coire Easain

Distant red deer in Coire an Easain

Looking back to Meall a'Bhuiridh and Rannoch Moor from ascent of Mam Coire Easain

Rannoch Moor from ascent of Mam Coire Easain

A final pull up to Mam Coire Easain (1070m) and we were on the high wide plateau/ridge that joins Clach Leathad and Creise.

Jim - ascent of Mam Coire Easain

Looking back to Meall a'Bhuiridh from Mam Coire Easain (1070m) 

The cloud had pretty much blown away - the views were wide. We could see the rest of our walk laid out to either side of us, north and south. Plus, just about the rest of the north of Scotland beyond.

Creise from Mam Coire Easain

Views north from Mam Coire Easain

We decided to head left (south) to pick up Clach Leathad first. Clach Leathad, a Munro Top, has the reputation for the best views on the ridge - we shall see.

Jim - ascent of Clach Leathad

It was an easy stroll to the top - with me snapping happily away with the camera...

Views west from Clach Leathad

Meall a'Bhuiridh from ascent of Clach Leathad

Jim and Rafe - ascent of Clach Leathad

Clach Leathad summit (Munro Top 27, 1099m) - views north to Ben Nevis

It really wasn't far to the summit - Clach Leathad (Munro Top 27, 1099m) - Being the only people on the hill (or so it seemed) we tucked in behind the cairn to take in the scene and to have a second lunch.

Views east over Rannoch Moor from Clach Leathad

Another walker (the first person we had seen since leaving the ski centre in Coire Pollack) wandered over to us across the plateau - initially we thought it was Alan Hinkes (brief excitement), the resemblance was uncanny! But his Scottish accent gave it away - he wasn't.

Views to Stob Ghabhar from Clach Leathad

It was still great to talk - he was a regular hillwalker, knowledgeable and interesting. We spent a pleasant twenty minutes identifying summits and chatting. Rafie mooched.

Views north Clach Leathad - Mam Coire Easain, Creise and Meall a'Bhuiridh

Onward to Creise - back to Mam Coire Easain and beyond - continuing with the summit identifying.

Rafe and Jim - views north to the Mamores and Ben Nevis from descent from Clach Leathad

Mam Coire Easain and Creise from descent from Clach Leathad

Rafe and Jim - returning to Mam Coire Easain

Walkers ascending Meall a'Bhuiridh west ridge from Mam Coire Easain

Views back (S) to Clach Leathad from Mam Coire Easain

Once again it was easy walking and we were very soon across the plateau to our second Munro of the day. The cloud had thickened again and we were a touch concerned that the weather was deteriorating. We needn't have worried, the cloud blew out as quickly as it had blown in.

Jim - ascent of Creise

Views to Buachaille Etive Mor from ascent of Creise

Sgurr na h-Ulaidh and Bidean nam Bian over Glen Etive from ascent of Creise

The views from Creise (Munro 50, 1100m) were, in our opinion, every bit as good as those from Clach Leathad.

Criese summit (Munro 50, 1100m)
Views to Buachaille Etive Mor with Ben Nevis beyond

There were a group of hang gliders below us on Creag Dhubh - we waited about for a while to see if anyone was taking off - but no, it looked like they were having a deep and meaningful discussion. We left them to their deliberations.

Hang gliders on Creag Dhubh from Creise

Looking back (S) over Bealach Coire an Easain to Clach Leathad from Creise

Back south to Mam Coire Easain.

Descent from Criese - back to Mam Coire Easain

We still had quite a long way to go - back across the bealach to Meall a'Bhuiridh again...

Meall a'Bhuiridh from descent from Criese

Jim and Rafe - Meall a'Bhuiridh from Mam Coire Easain

Rannoch Moor from second ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Ben Nevis from ascent of  Meall a'Bhuiridh

It was a bit of a slog, back up Meall a'Bhuiridh, it seemed steeper this way! - we indulged in a bit of quite unnecessary scrambling around in the rocks, which was fun. Rafe watched and shook his head, finding his own easy way to the top.

Jim - ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh's west ridge

Coire an Easain and Rannoch Moor from ascent of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Buachaille Etive Mor, and Nevis range over Sron na Creise from ascent of  Meall a'Bhuiridh

Rannoch Moor and Meall a'Bhuiridh summit

Views of Creise from Meall a'Bhuiridh

Aonach Beag, the Grey Corries and Stob Ban from Meall a'Bhuiridh

Once back at the top of Meall a'Bhuiridh we had a leisurely third lunch, not really wanting to go down yet - breathing in that mountain air.

Rafe - Meall a'Bhuiridh summit - views over Rannoch Moor

But time was getting on.

Jim and Rafe - views north west to Mamores and Ben Nevis from descent from Meall a'Bhuiridh

Down the north ridge - Jim didn't fancy crossing the boggy bottom of Coire Pollach again. He suggested that we head further east and down towards the ski tows. We could see what looked like a track leading down from the upper ski tows to our path at the rim of Coire Pollach. Ok, we'll go that way.

Jim and Rafe - descent towards the Glencoe Ski Centre from Meall a'Bhuiridh

It was a mistake. If the track had been a track once, it wasn't anymore! Rubble and rotten wood were strewn across the hillside, mixed with bits of metal and other scrap from the ski centre - we picked our way across an area that is obviously not often visited - and will be covered and hidden in snow through the ski season! Don't go that way.

By the time we got to the rim of Coire Pollach we had had enough of the rough going - but the steep and very rocky path descending under the access chairlift (closed, still and silent now, at this time of day) was not good! It was a proper chew and we were glad to get back to the car park.

Having said that we'd had an great day - and it's amazing how quickly you forget the sore feet and knees...

Roll on tomorrow - an excellent forecast for a climb of Ben Dorain and it's little brother - just across Rannoch Moor from Meall a'Bhuiridh and Creise. Bring it on...

Jim and Rafe - descent towards the Glencoe Ski Centre from Meall a'Bhuiridh

Route:  Car park at Glen Coe Ski Centre (NN266525), S on footpath (well signposted), very steeply under ski tow to NN260516 (just before buildings at top of steep slope), W across boggy area to foot of Meall a'Bhuiridh north ridge, S along intermittent rough path to Meall a'Bhuiridh (Munro 45, 1108m), WSW to bealach (sh 932m), W to Mam Coire Easain (Ex Munro Top, 1070m), S to Clach Leathad (Munro Top 27, 1099m), return to sh 1070m, continue N to Creise (Munro 50, 1100m), return to sh 1070m, return E to Meall a'Bhuiridh (Munro 45, 1108m), descend N along Meall a'Bhuiridh north ridge to NN253508 approx, contour around Coire Pollach to top of ski tow (NN258510), descend under ski tow to buildings (NN261516) and pick up path down steep slope to start.

Statistics:  Distance: 13km  Ascent: 1220m  Time: 7 hours 30 mins

Map:  OS Explorer 384 Glen Coe & Glen Etive

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