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| Waterfall on Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil at the start of the walk |
Jim's colleague Tomas, a keen walker, had been asking for an introduction to the hills of Scotland. Beinn Alligin seemed like a good initiation - plenty of interest, some easy scrambling, a bit of exposure, great views, not too far and two Munro's thrown in as well!
We'd been up Beinn Alligin before, August 2008, with two young collies and a Freddie - we'd had an amazing day (and an amazing holiday in Torridon) - if our jaunt on the hill with Tomas was half as good, it'd be first rate first Munro day.
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| Woods above Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil at the start of the walk |
We met up at
Cannich Campsite the night before and car shared from there to Torridon early on Saturday morning - parking up in the little car park near Torridon House, just west of Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. We donned boots and bags, crossed the bridge and headed off into the beautiful woodland that cloaks the banks of the river at this western end of Coire Mhic Nobaill.
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| The Horns of Alligin from near the beginning of the walk |
We'd had a bit of a heatwave across Scotland for about three weeks - and it was already hot! The forecast, though, was for the weather to break late in the afternoon, heavy rain! - it was hard to believe though. The skies were sapphire clear and the Torridon hills all around were their usual stunning selves.
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| The Horns of Alligin and Beinn Dearg from Coire Mhic Nobaill |
Tomas was fair gobsmacked!
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| Looking back (south) from Coire Mhic Nobaill |
Rafie trotted on - did he remember coming along this way when he wasn't much more than a pup? - probably not, but he seemed to be enjoying being out in the hills as much as we were - plus getting the extra attention from an extra two legged pack member.
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| Beinn Alligin - Tom na Gruagaich, Eag Dhubh, Sgurr Mor and the Horns of Alligin |
We were very soon out of the trees and gradually ascending into Coire Mhic Nobaill - the Torridon Giants to both sides and in front of us...
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| Sgurr Mor and the Horns of Alligin from waterfalls on Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil |
Love Torridon.
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| Beinn Dearg from Coire Mhic Nobuil |
Really love Torridon.
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| Rafe has a plodge in the Albhainn Coire Mhic Nobaill (NG881588) |
Beinn Alligin and the Horns loomed...
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| Looking back (south west) from the start of the ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
The path to Beinn Alligin is obvious - left, over a footbridge and meandering over the moor, acending gently towards Bealach Chomhla, crossing another footbridge (over Allt a'Bhealaich) and then taking another left at the foot of the nose of the Horns of Alligin - and you're there!
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| Coire Mhic Nobaill from ascent towards the Horns of Alligin |
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| Waterfalls on Allt a'Bhealaich with Tom na Gruagaich and Sgurr Mor beyond |
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| Ascent towards the Horns of Alligin (with Beinn Dearg to the right) |
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| Bridge over Allt a'Bhealaich |
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| Beinn Dearg, Beinn Eighe and Liathach above Coire Mhic Nobaill |
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| Tom na Gruagaich and Sgurr Mor from ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ben Damph and Loch Torridon from ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
Take a breath - take a look - then Up.
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| Ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
Stop every few yards to take it in again (and, in my case, take more photographs!)
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| Bealach a'Chomhla and Beinn Dearg |
It's a really amazing place.
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| Ben Damph and Loch Torridon from ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
There was a bit of easy scrambling - short stretches over rocky knolls - nothing any of us had any trouble with.
The views opened up further. A good excuse to stop and stare and to get our breath back.
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| Beinn Dearg and Liathach from ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
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| Loch Torridon from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Looking back down to Coire Mhic Nobaill from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ben Damh and Loch Torridon from ascent to the Horns of Alligin |
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| Jim - ascent to the First Horn - Beinn Alligin |
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| Loch Torridon and Tom na Gruagaich from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Beinn Dearg and Liathach from the Horns of Alligin |
The ridge over the Horns narrowed with height - just a little bit more exposure... But nothing scary.
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| Tom na Gruagaich and Sgurr Mor from the First Horn (Na Rathanan Far East Top, 815m) |
I'll leave you to think of a few superlatives.
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| Rafe - the Horns of Alligin with views to Beinn an Eoin and Beinn Dearg |
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Views north from the Horns of Alligin
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eoin over Shieldaig Forest |
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North from the Horns of Alligin
Beinn an Eoin and Beinn Dearg with Letterewe Forest and Slioch beyond |
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| Baosbheinn over Loch a'Bhealaich from the ascent of the Second Horn |
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| Beinn Alligin - ascent of the Second Horn |
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| Loch Torridon from the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin - views to Sgurr Mor and the ridge of the Horns |
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| Beinn Dearg from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin - Views to Loch Torridon and Tom na Gruagaich |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| A little scrambly bit on the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Looking back (SE) from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Looking back (SE) from ascent of the Horns of Alligin to Na Rathanan Far East Top |
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| Beinn Dearg from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Beinn Dearg from ascent of the Horns of Alligin |
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| Sgurr Mor from ascent of the Second Horn |
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| Beinn Dearg, Liathach and the First Horn from the Second Horn (Na Rathanan East Top, 858m) |
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| Baosbheinn and Shieldaig Forest from the Second Horn |
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| Shieldaig Forest from the Second Horn of Alligin |
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| Beinn Dearg from the Second Horn of Alligin |
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| Sgurr Mor and the Third Horn from the Second Horn |
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| Second Horn (Na Rathanan East Top) from ascent of the Third - Beinn Alligin |
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| Ascent of the Third Horn of Alligin |
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Summit of Na Rathanan (Sim, 864m) - Third Horn of Alligin
Views to Loch a'Bhealaich and Baosbheinn |
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| Views back (SE) along Horns of Alligin from Na Rathanan (Third Horn of Alligin) |
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| Views over Toll a'Mhadaidh to Loch Torridon and Beinn Damph from Na Rathanan (Third Horn of Alligin) |
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| Tom na Gruagaich and Sgurr Mor from Na Rathanan (Third Horn of Alligin) |
Rafe was a bit tired and a bit hot by the time we got to the summit of the Horns of Alligin, Na Rathanan (864m) - he had needed a bit of help across some of the scrambly bits, but that's what his harness is for. He was pleased to find a tiny lochan for a bit of a plodge.
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| Rafe cools his feet - ascent over Horns of Alligin - views to Baosbheinn |
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| Ascent over Horns of Alligin to Sgurr Mor |
There were a couple more minor, scrambly undulations, before we got stuck into the ascent of Sgurr Mor, our first Munro of the day.
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| Looking back (SE) along the NE escarpment of the Horns of Alligin to Beinn Eighe |
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| Views back (SE) over the Horns of Alligin, Beinn Dearg and Liathach |
Hot work!
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| Baosbheinn, Beinn over Shieldaig Forest from ascent of Sgurr Mor |
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| Looking back (E) over the Horns of Alligin to Beinn Dearg from ascent of Sgurr Mor |
There was definitely a haze coming in, the views no longer clear and sharp - but it was humid and sweaty - we dripped.
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| Loch Torridon from ascent of Sgurr Mor |
The rough path up to Sgurr Mor was clear and obvious, whilst steep, it was a quick ascent - we soon topped out at the summit cairn - Sgurr Mor (Munro 162, 986m) - the views over Torridon were incredible.
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| Sgurr Mor summit (Munro 162, 986m) - views over the Horns to Beinn Dearg |
Tomas was quite pleased to have completed his first Munro (restraint and understatement).
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| Tom na Gruagaich over Sgurr Mhor West Top from Sgurr Mor |
We could see the rest of the Beinn Alligin ridge laid out ahead of us...
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| Eag Dubh (Black Cleft) - Beinn Alligin |
The obligatory picture of the Eag Dubh - with a walker on either side - was dutifully taken!
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| Descent from Sgurr Mor with views to Sgurr Mhor West Top |
Before rolling onwards over Beinn Alligin's ridge's undulations.
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| Sgurr Mhor West Top (859m) - views back (NE) to Sgurr Mor and Eag Dubh |
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| Views north east along the Beinn Alligin ridge |
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| Jim - ascent of Tom na Gruagaich |
The ascent to Tom na Gruagaich was relatively easy - the rough path following the ridge above the steep escarpment, cliffs to our left - dramatic and impressive. The views now moody as the haze increased and cloud moved in.
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| Views back (NE) to Sgurr Mor and the Horns of Alligin from ascent of Tom na Gruagaich |
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| Jim, Rafe and Tomas - ascent of Tom na Gruagaich |
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| Looking back to the Horns of Alligin from ascent of Tom na Gruagaich |
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| Nearing the summit of Tom na Gruagaich |
We could still see the rest of the ridge behind us when we reached the summit of Tom na Gruagaich (Munro 268, 922m) - serrated and serried - but the higher hills around us were shrouded, cloud and mist roiling - views different, but no less spectacular.
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Tom na Gruagaich summit (Munro 268, 922m)
Looking back (NE) to Sgurr Mhor West Top, Sgurr Mor and the Horns of Alligin |
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| Rafe - Tom na Gruagaich summit |
Once Tomas had celebrated his second Munro, with a drink and a sarnie, we continued on along the ridge, looking for the path down into Coire nan Laogh to the south - sad to see the last of the summits, but it looked as if we were now racing the weather...
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| Looking across to the south top from Tom na Gruagaich |
The path, descending into the coire headed down from the bealach between Tom na Gruagaich and the South Top. It was rough, loose and eroded in places and quite steep - tough on tired knees and feet.
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| Descent into Coire nan Laogh from Tom na Gruagaich |
And it was starting to rain!
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| Descent into Coire nan Laogh from Tom na Gruagaich |
We didn't mess about - the forecast for potential thunderstorms and heavy rain on our minds - jackets on!
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| Jim - descent through Coire nan Laogh |
The route was still very lovely - a proper hanging coire, cradling us in the hills - with views ahead across Loch Torridon.
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| Views north east to the Horns of Alligin and Beinn Dearg from descent out of Coire nan Laogh |
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| Tomas - Na Fasreidhnean, Coire nan Laogh and Tom na Gruagaich |
It was quite a long descent - it seemed further than the distance on the map led us to expect - and longer than we remembered from last time (maybe we're getting old!).
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| Rafe - Eigh Dubh, Sgurr Mor and the Horns of Alligin from descent from Tom na Gruagaich |
Rafie was pleased to find a few lochans - we had thought he was tired, but he was straight in, bouncing about and "doing his washing" - he just loves the water.
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| Tomas - views south east over Loch Torridon to Ben Damph from descent from Tom na Gruagaich |
The path improved as we neared the Coire Mhic Nobaill track - much nicer on the feet! And once on the main track we could look back up to our descent route with satisfaction - especially for Tomas.
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| Looking back (MW) from descent from Tom na Gruagaich |
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| Beinn Eighe from descent into Coire Mhic Nobaill |
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| Tomas and Jim - views south east over Loch Torridon to Ben Damph from descent into Coire Mhic Nobaill |
It was a short, if slightly damp, stroll back to the car, through the woods. Tomas all big smiles now...
Hope we haven't put him off for life.
And we'd made it down to the car before the heavens opened. The rain was bouncing off the roads before we got back to the campsite. Glad we weren't in a tent that night!
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| Woods at the western end of Coire Mhic Nobaill near Torridon House |
Route: Car park nr. Torridon House 3km west of Torridon village (NG868576), E across bridge, N on footpath into Coire Mhic Nobuil, N across fb at NG 881589 towards Bealeach a'Chomhla, fb at NG882596, rough path NW over Horns of Alligin, (Na Rathanan Far East Top 815m, Na Rathanan East Top 858m, Na Rathanan Sim 866m), W to Sgurr Mhor (986m, Munro 162), Eag Dhubh, W to Sgur Mhor West Top (859m), SW then S to Tom na Gruagaich (922m, Munro 268) (just E off the path), S into Coire nan Laogh, return to Coire Mhic Nobuil and start.
Statistics: Distance: 10km Ascent: 1110m Time: 8 hours 15 minutes
Map: Harvey Superwalker - Torridon
