Ben Chonzie - hot, hot, hot...

Jim - setting off from Coishavachan in Glen Lednock

After a great hill day yesterday on An Caisteal and Beinn a'Chroin, the weather forecast was far too good to go home early on Sunday - so we packed up Cyril at the Immervoulin Campsite (after a morning stroll along the very lovely River Balvag to Loch Lubnaig) and headed for one of the few Munro tiddlers that we hadn't picked off yet - Ben Chonzie.

Ascent of the track above Coishavachan

We'd kind of been avoiding Glen Lednock (bad memories - in 2002 I managed to throw myself off a hillside above Loch Lednock and had to be helicoptered off, to Sterling Royal Infirmary. I spent six months recuperating from my injuries - and we haven't been that way since) - but a sunny Sunday in July seemed to be a good day to break the moratorium.

Looking back (SW) towards Coishavachan and the Trossachs

The little car park at the settlement of Coishavachan was full (partially due to some very bad parking!) so we found a safe place a few hundred yards back along the road.

It was hot (HOT) when we set off - it's not very often that Jim doesn't have a jacket on at the start!

Ascending the track towards Ben Chonzie above the Invergeldie Burn

A good track led to the village, past the houses and onward into the hills...

The Intake where we crossed the Invergeldie Burn (NN746287)

It was hard underfoot and the heat reflected back from the stones, radiating up into a haze - it's not often we can say that in Scotland.

Ascent to Ben Chonzie

The track meandered above the Invergeldie Burn, before crossing the stream and wandering east, up the hillside.

Aromatic heather, thyme and saxifrage blanketed the sides of the track, wafting across us in warm waves. Grouse squawked and flew across our path. The sky was blue and the views went on forever.

Looking back (W) along the track towards Ben Chonzie

But when the expected rough path headed off the track to the left at a cairn, it was a relief - we'd had enough of the almost road. Amongst the heather, herbs and grasses, it was immediately cooler, plus we were getting higher - the gentle breeze was very welcome.

Jim heading off the main track and onto rough path - ascent of Ben Chonzie

We met a chap who had been cycling up Ben Chonzie - he was carrying his mountain bike since he had left the main track. Sweating profusely, he was really struggling - Jim offered to help, but he was determined to get there under his own steam (and he was certainly steaming!). We carried on - looking back to check he was OK. He was very slow, but he seemed to be managing - I don't mind a bike ride, this really didn't look fun - I wouldn't have even fancied cycling down that path!

Looking back (W) along ascent route

Jim - ascent of Ben Chonzie

Ben Chonzie  - across the summit plateau

It was only a gentle pull and we were soon on the summit plateau - then it was just a case of following a line of old fence posts across the grassy sward, taking a 90 degree turn with the fence, before an even gentler stroll up to the summit.

Ben Lawers and friends from Ben Chonzie summit plateau

Gentle ascent across the summit plateau to summit

There were a few people at the summit, picnicking and taking in the views - so after the usual summit pictures, we ambled off to find a quieter spot (a really rather comfy grassy mound) for lunch and a summit naming competition  - there really was a tremendous view...

Ben Chonzie summit (Munro 250, 931m) - views NW towards Lawers group

Ben Lawers and An Stuc stood out to the north west, Schiehallion and friends in the north, plus our recent climbs - yesterday on An Caisteal and last week on Ben Vorlich - acoss in the south west.

Loch Turret from Ben Chonzie

Jim - Descending SW across Ben Chonzie summit plateau (the point where we left the path NN767303)

But all good things must come to an end (and a chilly wind had got up) so it was time to head down.

We retraced our route across the summit plateau, till we got to the 90 degree turn in the fence and we carried straight on - the thought of the dizzyingly hot path was just too much - and headed straight off the hill, heading directly for a path junction we could see on the map and away ahead in the glen.

Jim - descent from Ben Chonzie - views SW towards Invergeldie 

It was a bit tussocky, but we were going downhill - we made good time.

Mountain hare - descent from Ben Chonzie

And we were happy to glimpse a mountain hare gambolling across the hillside.

Jim picked up an enormous feather, lying on the grass which he tucked it into his rucksack - we later identified it (we hope) as a golden eagle feather.

Jim - descent from Ben Chonzie

Jim - descent from Ben Chonzie

There was a brief, easy, scrambly bit, through a tumble of rocks, before we reached the main track again - making a mental note to come back sometime to check out the remains of a clearances settlement a bit further up the glen.

Ben Chonzie - from our descent

Descent from Ben Chonzie - back on the main track (NN755290)

It was an easy walk back down the good track to Coishavachan - a gentle descent with the promise of coffee and cake at the end. It was still very warm, but it was pleasant now that we were walking downhill rather than up.

Descent from Ben Chonzie - above Invergeldie

Invergeldie Burn

 And it really wasn't very far...

Jim - nearing Coishavachan

Ben Chonzie has the reputation of being a boring hill. But on a lovely day - and getting off the beaten track - it was filled with interest and views.

The golden eagle feather, found on our descent from Ben Chonzie

Route:  Car parking area opposite the old school at Coishavachan (NN743273), N along track towards the houses at Coishavachan turning E just before them and going through gate, turn N again and follow track beside the Invergeldie Burn, cross burn at NN742279 and continue NE along burn, cross the burn again at intake at NN746287 and continue along main track as it ascends more steeply E above another burn, at a turn in the track just before the brow of the hill (at a small cairn NN767293) take a rough path NNE across hillside to the broad ridge of the hill, a line of fenceposts mark the path NW and then (from NN767303) NE to summit of Ben Chonzie (Munro 250, 931m), return to the turn in the fenceposts (NN767303), and continue SW on open hillside descending towards Invergeldie Burn and the junction of two tracks at NN755290, now back on the outward track, descend to start point. Statistics:  Distance: 13km  Ascent: 720m  Time: 4 hours Map:  OS Explorer 368 Crieff, Comrie & Glen Artney Ben Chonzie - 931m - Munro 250

Bla Bheinn

Great forecast. Go west...

Bla Bheinn and Garbh-bheinn over Loch Slapin from Torrin

We set off from the car park beside the Broadford to Elgol road beside Loch Slapin, taking in the glorious views of Skye about us - seriously excited about the prospects for an excellent hill day.

And what an excellent day it turned out to be!

Bla Bheinn from the car park beside the B8083

The path was good, recently improved by The John Muir Trust's dedicated volunteers, towards Bla Bheinn, through the gold and umber autumn grasses - easy walking.

Bla Bheinn from the path at the start of the walk

The Allt na Dunaiche tumbled across the moor, through gorge and over waterfall and the path followed its course, a gradual and comfortable ascent.

Waterfalls on Allt na Dunaiche

Looking back along the Allt na Dunaiche

Waterfalls on Allt ns Dunaiche with Bla Bheinn beyond

Rafe and Jim - Nearing the start of the ascent into Coire Uaigneich

The crags of Bla Bheinn got gradually nearer.

Rafe has a plodge in Allt na Dunaiche

There was a short steep pull up Coire Uaigneich right under the crags - it was here that the improvements to the path were most appreciated, easy steps - and we were soon stepping out into the grassy bowl of Fionna-choire.

Looking back from the ascent into Coire Uaigneich
Views to Loch Slapin and Beinn na Caillich

Jim - Ascent into Coire Uaigneich - views to An Stac

Jim and Rafe - Coire Uaigneich

Views back (east) into Coire Uaigneich to The Red Cuillin

Views south over Loch Fionna-coire

We could see other walkers ahead of us, heading across the coire floor, making a bee line for the zig zags visible at the far western end.

That wasn't our route today - as soon as were were past the steep rocks on our right, we took an indistinct path, up, beside Bla Bheinn's eastern crags, marked by a little cairn.

Jim - Fionna-choire - views west to bealach between
Slat Bheinn and Bla Bheinn

We stopped for a first lunch, sitting on some convenient rocks, not far above the coire and took in the breathtaking arena around and above us. We didn't stop for long, we wanted to get on...

Views south east from the start of the ascent out of Fionna-choire

Jim - ascent of Bla Bheinn out of Fionna-choire

The path soon became more obvious - initially there were zigzags through fairly steep scree.

Jim - ascent of Bla Bheinn

Once bejond the initial scree slog, we kept towards the edge of the crags, undertaking a bit of easy scrambling when it was offered.

Views back (south east) from start of the ascent out of Fionna-choire

And the views! No words...

Views south east over Loch Slapin, from ascent of Bla Bheinn south east face

Clach Glas from ascent of Bla Bheinn

The Great Prow, Garbh-bheinn and Clach Glas from ascent of Bla Bheinn

Craggy bits - ascent of Bla Bheinn

Loch Slapin from ascent of Bla Bheinn

Beinn Sgritheall, Loch Hourn and Knoydart from ascent of Bla Bheinn

Views back down our route into Fionna-choire and over Loch Slapin

Views east over the Red Cuillin from ascent of Bla Bheinn

Jim - beside the Great Prow

The Great Prow and Garbh-bheinn from the ascent of Bla Bheinn

Views east from Bla Bheinn

Clach Glas from the ascent of Bla Bheinn

Jim - Ascent of Bla Bheinn

Bla Bheinn's eastern cliffs and Loch Slapin

Views north over Red Cuillin and Garbh-bheinn from ascent of Bla Bheinn

Rafe - ascent of Bla Bheinn

Jim - ascent of Bla Bheinn

Views north as we near the summit of Bla Bheinn

There's not many hills when you don't want the ascent to finish.

Jim and Rafe - the final pull to Bla Bheinn summit

North from the ascent of Bla Bheinn

There was a bit of whispy cloud hanging over the summit as we climbed the final few metres, but this soon took itself off to hang around the rugged summits of the Black Cuillin instead.

Jim nears the summit - Bla Bheinn

There were a couple of glossy ravens on the summit, looking to share our sandwiches...

Raven near Bla Bheinn summit

We took about one hundred photographs...

Black Cuillin and Glen Sligachan from Bla Bheinn

Bla Bheinn (Munro 252, 928m) is the most amazing viewpoint!

Over the Sount of Sleat to Knoydart from Bla Bheinn

We got tucked behind some rocks, out of the rather chilly wind (it is the end of October!) and had a second lunch. The Black Cuillin loomed precipitously over Glen Sligachan in front of us - we watched the cloud wending its way around the summits whilst we tried to identify the different points.

Bla Bheinn summit (Munro 252, 928m) - views north

Black Cuillin, Glen Sligachan and Red Cuillin frmo Bla Bheinn

We wandered on, west across a minor bealach, with more wonderful views. This time, to the Small Isles.

Rafe and Jim - Bla Bheinn summit - views to Bla Bheinn South West Top

The Black Cuillin from Bla Bheinn

The Red Cuillin from Bla Bheinn

Rafe and Jim - descent from Bla Bheinn - views to South West Top

Loch Slapin and Sound of Sleat from Bla Bheinn

Sleat with Knoydart beyond from Bla Bheinn

Jim - scrambly bits on Bla Bheinn South West Top

There was a bit of a scramble up to Bla Bheinn's South West Top - up a ledge and round a boulder. This would have been fine if we didn't have our four legged friend, but even with his harness, we couldn't quite get Rafe around the boulder.

Rafe has a bit of a scramble on Bla Bheinn South West Top

Jim had to take Rafie back to the bealach and find another route - there was a handy shute just below the ledge - but Rafe still needed a helping hand up the steepest bit.

Eigg, Rum and Soay from Bla Bheinn South West Top (Munro Top 196, 926m)

The Black Cuillin and Glen Sligachan frmo Bla Bheinn South West Top

More expansive views from Bla Bheinn South West Top (Munro Top 196, 926m).

Jim - Descent from Bla Bheinn South West Top -views south over the Sound of Sleat

The descent into the bealach to the south was a long scree and boulder hopping slog. I'm really glad we didn't ascend that way.

The views were never ending though.

Bealach between Bla Bheinn SW Top and Slat Bheinn

We were soon down in the bealach. Rafie had the obligatory plodge in the lochan.

Looking back (north west) to South West Top and  Bla Bheinn

We just weren't ready to head down yet. We decided to pop up Slat Beinn, the minor top (a Sim) to the south.

Views south west from bealach between Slat Bheinn and Bla Bheinn

Jim and Rafe - ascent of Slat Bheinn

It really wasn't very far. And once again the views were far reaching.

Rum from Slat Bheinn

Jim - Slat Bheinn - views east

I wandered about on the summit of Slat Bheinn (624m) taking more pictures, back to Bla Bheinn, across to the mainland, of myriad islands - whilst Jim sauntered across the summit...

Bla Bheinn from Slat Bheinn

...before running back towards me gesturing to hurry. Just over the bank, on the rocky eastern slopes of Slat Bheinn, was a golden eagle standing on a boulder, just 10 metres or so, away from us.

Golden eagle - Slat Bheinn

We all (including Rafie) stood and watched in awe. S/he sat there, surveying her domain - particularly interested in walkers coming down the zigzags from Bla Bheinn on the other side of Fionna-choire (the way we had gone up). S/he seemed unaware that we were there and we were able to watch for several minutes before s/he decided to take herself off, to soar above the coire, then away to the east.

Bla Bheinn and Loch Foinna-choire

Jim and I continued our descent into Fionna-choire with big grins on our faces. It really put a cap on an already great day.

Bla Bheinn from descent from Slat Bheinn (zig zag ascent route right of centre)

We stopped for a bite beside Loch Fionna-choire - a mirror for the sky - and watched the shadows move across the mountains of the mainland.

Third lunch by Loch Fionna-coire

We dropped into the upper gorge of Coire Uaigneich and followed the burn east for a while, until the we neared the path.

Descent via Coire Uaigneich

Clambering out of the gorge, we took the easy route back, across the moor, past the waterfalls and the golden autumn back to the car and a welcome cuppa.

Back on the path - descent from Fionna-coire

What a day...

Beside the Allt na Dunaiche - descent towards Loch Slapin

Route:  John Muir Trust car park by B8083 Broadford/Elgin road (NG560215), fp back to road, N across road bridge over Allt na Dunaiche, immediately W along good fp along N bank of burn and ascend into Coire Uaigneich, once into Fionna-choire, just past the crags (NG536212), turn sharp N at a small cairn and follow zig zag very rough path above cliffs and crags to Bla Bheinn summit (Munro 252, 928m), W to Bla Bheinn South West Top (Munro Top 196, 926m), descend SE steeply on scree to bealach (NG533209), SE to Stat Bheinn summit (624m), E then N avoiding crags to Loch Fionna-choire (NG537211), NE picking way across gorge to path at NG538213 approx, return E to start.

Statistics:  Distance: 9km  Ascent: 1050m  Time: 6 hours

Map:  OS Explorer 411 Skye - Cuillin Hills

Bla Bheinn